1+2+3 = 6
Six is the time of the tides, the switch between night and day. Six is surf, waves, shoes, magazines and board wax...
This year I have been learning how to surf. Beginning with attempts at standing up and staying on the wave. Moving on from that I began learning turns, (which I am attempting often ending in a large splash and tangles in leg ropes) after turns come manoeuvres, and how to create speed within the wave. How to read the ocean.
So now I find myself out in the waves almost everyday, trying to catch a good set, turn within it, and avoid encounters with my leg rope. After fantasizing as other amazing surfers ride the waves I watch from my board and then attempt to turn across the wave and stay standing.
As my surf related collections grow, I am finding myself more and more with my head in a surf magazine, skating and pretending the road is a wave or dissecting impressive surf manoeuvres out of magazines where they then end up on my wall.
Do you, or have you ever surfed? I bet you're a pro.